• Content
  • History
    
  • Government Royalty
    
  • Preparation
    
  • Open Peaks in Sikkim
    
  • Virgin Peaks
    

Mountaineering in Sikkim requires more planning and paperwork, as a climber’s needs clearance from IMF (Indian Mountaineering Foundation), New Delhi; besides and the local government may impose royalties on certain peaks and also a climber must fill and submit the Application form for the permission to undertake expedation in Sikkim.

History

Douglas W. Freshfild was the first European to explore the Kanchanjunga area, who reached its base in 1899 from the Green Lake Basin area. A German expedition led by Paul Bauer made the first attempt to reach the summit in 1929 followed by another attempt in 1931 and reached an altitude of 26,000 ft. In 1955 Charles Evans conquered Khangchendzonga a few feet below the summit from the Nepal side. In 1977 an expedition led by Major Prem Chand reached a few feet below the summit. In 1987 an Assam Rifles expedition attempted the peak. In 1991 an Indo Japanese expedition led by Hukam Singh and Yoshio Ogata conquered the peak.  The Kabru was first climbed in 1935 by a British C.R. Cooke. The Pyramid Peak was first conquered in 1949 by a Swiss R. Dittert. A British A.M. Kallas, climbed the Paunhri in 1911. The summit of Siniolchu was first reached by a German in 1936. It was later again climbed by the famous Sikkimese Everester Sonam Gyatso. Pandim was climbed in 1993 by a team from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute. Rathong was conquered by an Indian expedition in 1964.  Khangchendzonga (8585 mtrs/ 28,146 ft) is considered the Guardian Deity of Sikkim. For sentimental, religious and other environmental reasons, permission is not granted by the Sikkim government is to scale the peak. Rathong (22,000 ft.) has some of the open peaks though they require special permits. The best known peaks in Sikkim - Talung, Jonsong and Tent are all above 24,000 feet.

Government Royalty

The royalty has to be paid to Sikkim Government in Gangtok after the permit is granted by the IMF in New Delhi.
Peaks above 8000 meters: 8000 USD
Peaks between 7501-8000 meters: 7000 USD
Peaks between 7001-7500 meters: 6000 USD
Peaks between 6501 – 7000 meters: 5500 USD
Peaks below 6500 meters: 5000 USD

Preparation

Physical and mental preparations are the most important factor for climbers, to be successful not only great physical condition is required, also you need to develop technical skills. If you are a novice climber, the more time you spend training the better prepared you will be. It is necessary to train the specific muscles demanded in a mountain climbing, such as abs and back muscles are important because they help with balance and agility. Climbers also carry weigh in a back pack on the mountain so stronger muscles make carrying weight in a backpack easier. Bad weather, route challenges, hunger and being ready for the unexpected require mental toughness. It's a long term commitment and could take months of preparation. It is necessary to listen to experts or join mountaineering institutes to prepare yourself prior to climbing any peaks.

Open Peaks in Sikkim

Virgin Peaks in Sikkim